Assembly instructions for the MOTM version of the Blacet Time Machine - Rev 2/27/02 If you have decided to build the Blacet Time Machine and convert it to the MOTM format, you have no doubt found that this procedure is more complicated than simply purchasing and building a Synthesis Technology MOTM kit. And, you have found that Blacet's concept of "MOTM versions" of his kits is simply omission of the parts you would not use. The additional parts you need are not included. The instructions are not revised to reflect the changes involved in conversion to the MOTM format. Instead of having everything you need delivered to your door in one neat package, you must accumulate parts from a variety of sources. Here is what you need to get started: 1. Blacet Time Machine kit (MOTM version to save you a few bucks) 2. MOTM format Blacet Time Machine panel (available from Stooge Panels, Inc.) 3. Four-pot wide, long version PCB mounting bracket (available from me). 4. A handful of other parts from your favorite electrical supply house including: * Six 50 K linear pots (see text concerning selection) * Nine 1/4" Switchcraft 112A phone jacks * One MOTM style SPDT switch (for the bypass modification) * Two 1N4148 signal diodes or equivalent (if you make my modifications) * Extra 1K 1% resistor(if you make my modifications) and (1)100K resistor for the bypass modification. * Six MOTM style Alco knobs * One MOTM style Lumex LED (if you want to replace the one Blacet supplies) * One 3.3K resistor for the Lumex style LED if you elected to use the Lumex LED. * Nylon PCB mounting hardware including PCB stand-offs (or spacers). * Possibly one 156 MTA power connector (see text on drilling the PCB) * Solder (organic and no-clean) * Some additional # 22 and # 24 gauge wire for panel wiring. * Some various sizes of heat shrink tubing and a few small wire ties. I will not attempt to list the part numbers here. Changes and a variety of vendors and suppliers make that task unreasonable to include in the assembly instructions. Instead, I will refer you to "the" definitive MOTM compatible parts reference assembled by Dave Bradley. Visit http://www.hotrodmotm.com/parts_list.htm for everything you need to know about where to get these parts. You will also need to refer to your original Blacet assembly instructions for the graphics including the schematic and PCB drawings. I cannot include those in this document without infringing on John's copyright (which, of course, I would not do). Please be aware, that these instructions include some modifications to the original Time Machine. I have included all of the changes recommended by John since the new Time Machine was issued. In addition, I have included the documentation for each of three modifications. You can decide if you want to make the modifications and following the instructions accordingly. The first modification is to add a manual bypass switch to the front panel. This has the same effect as canceling with the cancel CV input (which we have renamed "bypass" on the Stooge panels). If you choose not to implement this bypass switch, simply leave the switch and resistor off. The second modification is designed to protect two of the inputs from negative voltage input which has proven to lock up the clock. These changes involve the Delay CV and External Mod CV inputs. Before we begin with the electrical construction, you have some mechanical issues to deal with. My PCB mounting brackets are universal and are not specifically made for a certain PCB. Some modifications are required to the four-pot long mounting bracket to work for this assembly. I have taken several photos of the construction process for my Time Machine. You will find references to the photos throughout these instructions. You can find these photos at: http://www.wiseguysynth.com/larry/tm2050/2050_construction.htm The only modification needed to the four-pot long bracket is drilling the PCB mounting holes. Unfortunately, the Blacet Time Machine PCB does not include any mounting holes. So, you must drill your own holes in the PCB also. And, the PCB is very densely populated. Great care must be exercised in selecting the location of your holes. You need to be absolutely certain that no traces are cut and that the screw heads will not interfere with the part on top. After careful consideration, I drilled 5 holes in my Time Machine panel for support. You can see my choices for holes in my photo (01). Nylon machine screws, standoffs and nuts are essential as there are no locations to drill that will provide enough physical clearance for metal ones. These can be found in the specialty hardware section of most home improvement type stores. I expect they can be found in many hobby stores also. I used #6-32 nylon hardware. However, I probably would have used #4-40 if I could have found it when I was picking up my parts. The correct hole size for #6-32 is 9/64 inch. I highly recommend you start with a very small bit to place the hole and then drill the smaller hole out to the 9/64 finished size. Photo (02) You must drill the PCB first. After you have it drilled, then you can decide how you want it positioned on the bracket. If I had known anything about the size of the PCBs that would someday find their was onto my long brackets, I would have made them about 1/2 inch deeper. The holes at the rear of the PCB are right at the edge. See here (photo 03) where I drilled my PCB holes. You must drill the holes in the bracket that are aligned with your PCB holes. I offer the following suggestion. Place masking tap on your bracket in the general locations where you can see the holes will be needed. Position your PCB on top of the bracket exactly as you wish it to be mounted (without the stand offs of course). Don't forget to leave room for your pots. You can take a fine point pen and trace circles inside the newly drilled PCB holes onto the masking tape. Now, you have your holes marked on your bracket exactly where they need to be. Drill your holes with the size but appropriate for your hardware. 9/64 is perfect for # 6-32. I have my PCB on the left side (looking from the back) like MOTM modules. However, it will work either way. Putting it on the left as I did causes the PCB to be upside down from its original configuration. However, since no pots are board mounted, it really makes little difference. I think upside down is best actually. This might be a good spot to make sure all your mechanical parts go together well before you move to soldering. Mount your PCB to your bracket using stand offs. Attach your bracket to your front panel using two of the four pots. Do not forget to install backing nuts on your pots. This is CRITICAL. The concept of my mounting brackets is that the bracket is held in place by sandwiching the bracket and front panel together between the back nut and front nut on the pot shaft. You cannot tighten against the pot body. You will have nothing but trouble if you try. You should always use backing nuts on your pots. Hopefully, everything fits together well in your trial fitting and you are ready to heat up the soldering iron. I will also note here, that my brackets were made and sized before I knew there was going to even be a Time Machine. So, they are just barely long enough. In fact, to be sure I had plenty of room, I specially selected 148 or 149 series pots for the locations in front of the PCB. For the two not in front of the PCB, you can use any size 50 K pot. In my photos you will find the larger Bournes pots in these locations (cause I have about 10 of them in my personal stock). You will also notice my REGEN pot is a carbon pot. I really did not want to use any carbon pots. But, this is the only one I found with a center detent. Dave Hylander actually found it and shared his information with me. You can see the difference in fitting room in these photo comparisons: Trial fit large pots=(photo 04) Trial fit small pots=(photo 05) I am not including part numbers for pots. Use what suits your needs. If you want to know what part numbers I used, just drop me and note and I will give you the exact part numbers. I will confess that I have been spoiled by the completeness of MOTM assembly instructions. The Blacet instructions are not nearly as complete, leaving the assembler to jump back and forth between the schematic and parts list to figure out what part goes where. As I write these instructions for the conversion to the MOTM format, I am also adding to the Blacet document some more specific instructions that I believe are easier to follow. I also changed the relative order of the component placement on the PCB. First, a word about solder. I am assuming that you will follow the MOTM solder standard and use organic solder (requiring a board wash) for much of the soldering, and then switching to a no-clean solder to complete the construction. If you adopt another strategy, you are on your own concerning the need to wash the PCB. I like to install my components based on relative height. It seems to be easier for me. However, feel free to jump around the instructions to suit yourself. I started with the individual resistors. However, I skipped over the resistors that stand on end until later. PART 1: Installing the individual resistors (only those that lay flat) and diodes You will use organic washable solder for this part of the construction. First, the 1% tolerance blue resistors: * Install (1) 357K ohm resistor at R8 (upper left corner, above RT1) * Install (2) 75K ohm resistor at R10 and R12 (R10 is in upper left corner, between RT1 and RT2. R12 is at the upper edge above RN1) * Install (1) 45.3K ohm resistor at R11 (upper left corner, below RT2) SEE NOTE NOTE: OK, here is the spot for the modification that protects the clock from lock-up from negative control voltage. This protects both the Delay CV and External Mod CV input. If you want to skip my modification, install R11. If you want to add my modification, just leave R11 out at this time. Put it aside for later installation. * Install (1) 274K ohm resistor at R14 (upper left corner, right of Q1/R7) * Install (1) 41.2K ohm resistor at R15 (upper edge, above U7) * Install (1) 100K ohm resistor at R9 (upper left between RT1 and RT2). Now, the 5% tolerance resistors: * Install (2) 33K ohm resistors at R23 and R25 (R23 and R25 in lower left below U5). * Install (4) 100K ohm resistors at R17, R26, R27, and R28 (R17 is upper middle between U8 and U9. R26, R27, and R28 are lower left, left of U6). * Install (3) 56K ohm resistors at R30, R31, and R20 (R30 and R31 are lower left edge, below U6. R20 is upper right, right of U9) * Install (1) 470K ohm resistor at R18 (upper edge, right of U8) * Install (1) 47K ohm resistor at R19 (upper edge, right of U8) * Install (2) 10K ohm resistors at R16 and R24 (R16 is upper middle, below RN4. R24 is lower left, below U5) * Install (1) 1K ohm resistor at R21 (left edge, left of U3) * Install (1) 15K ohm resistor at R22 (left edge, left of U3) * Install (1) 7.5K ohm resistor at R13 (upper left, below U1) * Install (1) 100 ohm resistor at R29 (left edge, left of U4) * Install (1) 150K ohm resistor at R43 (lower edge) That completes the installation of all the individual resistors positioned flat on the PCB. Next, you will add the diodes. Please note that two different diode types are used in the Time Machine. Use care not to confuse them. And, be certain to note polarity. The arrow on the PCB points toward the stripe on the diode. * Install (4) IN4148 diodes (the glass ones) at D1, D2, D3 and D4. (All cathode stripes are to the left) Note: You will still have your two 1N4148 extra diodes left. They come later if you plan to do my negative CV protection modification. * Install 2 1N4001 diodes (the black ones) at D5 and D6 (near the power connector, facing opposite directions) PART 1 continued: Installing the non-electrolytic capacitors * Install (2) 0.1uF ceramic axial capacitors (marked 104) at C32 and C34 (near the power connector) * Install (4) 0.01uF ceramic capacitors (marked .01 or 103) at C1, C6, C27 and C30 (C1 is upper left, below U1. C6 is upper right, right of U9, C27 is upper right below RN14. C30 is lower right between U16 and U17). * Install (3) 22 pF ceramic capacitors (marked 220) at C2, C4, and C15 (C2 is upper middle, below U7. C4 is upper middle, below U8. C15 is lower left corner, below U6). * Install (5) 100 pF ceramic capacitors (marked 101) at C13, C18, C19, C20 and C28 (C13 is lower left, above U6. C18 and C19 are middle, above U10. C20 is middle, below U10. C28 is right side above U16). * Install (1) 150 pF ceramic capacitor (marked 151) at C12 (lower left, above U6). * Install (5) 560 pF ceramic capacitors (marked 561) at C11, C21, C22, C23, and C24 (C11 is lower left, below U5. C21 through C24 are at bottom edge, below RN8). * Install (2) 0.1uF red mylar capacitors (marked 104) at C5 and C29 (C5 is upper right, right of U8. C29 is lower right between U16 and U17). This completes the installation of all capacitors except the larger electrolytic. Do not confuse the PS1 and PS2 resettable fuse-like devices as capacitors. They resemble small ceramic capacitors but are distinguished by preformed leads and are marked "R010BOVS." You will install those later. OK. This is a good stopping point for your first board wash. Run the board under warm water (do not use any soap or cleaners). Gently scrub both sides of the board to remove the organic flux. Any small brush will do the job. I use an old toothbrush. If you have not done so already, this would be a good time to inspect your solder joints. Check to be certain you have not forgotten to solder one end of a component or that you have not accidentally bridged one thing to another with excess solder. Personally, I check my joints right before I clip my leads. It seems easier to me to find what I have just competed that way. Here is what your PCB should look like: photo (06) PART 2: Installing resistor networks, sockets, transistors and regulators. Next you will install the resistor networks. Notice that each resistor network has a white dot on one end. Be absolutely certain to align the resistor networks on the PCB so the white dot is at the end indicated by the white dot on the PCB. Before you insert your resistors, check that the pins are not bent. Bend them as needed to form a straight line. Cinch resistor networks to the PCB by bending the end pins over, one in one direction and the opposite end the other direction. Then, solder a couple of pins and inspect to be sure you are happy with the position. Straighten the bent-over pins and solder all remaining pins. * Install (2) 100K ohm resistor networks (10 pin marked 10B104) at RN1 and RN12 (RN1 is on upper left corner. R12 is at the lower left, just left of the power connector). * Install (1) 100K ohm resistor network (6 pin marked 6B104) at RN2. Be certain not to confuse this with the 6 pin network marked 6A104. B = separate resistors, while A = bussed resistors (RN2 is on left side, just left of RT3) * Install (1) 100K ohm resistor network (6 pin marked 6A104) at RN13. Be certain not to confuse this with the 6 pin network marked 6B104 that you are installing at RN2. (R13 is in the top right corner) * Install (2) 100K ohm resistor networks (8 pin marked 8B104) at RN9 and RN15 (RN9 is right side middle, below U12. (RN15 is at the right edge middle, above U16) * Install (1) 56K ohm resistor network (8 pin marked 8B563) at RN3 (left bottom corner). * Install (1) 5.6K ohm resistor network (8 pin marked 8B562) at RN4 (upper middle, below U7). * Install (3) 33K ohm resistor networks (8 pin marked 8B333) at RN5, RN6, and RN7 (RN5 is middle of PCB below RT5. RN6 is lower middle below U10. U7 is lower middle below RN6). * Install (1) 560 ohm resistor network (8 pin marked 8B561) at RN8 (left bottom corner). * Install (2) 20K ohm resistor networks (8 pin marked 8B203) at RN10 and RN11 (RN10 is below RN9. RN11 is below RN10). * Install (1) 10K ohm resistor network (8 pin marked 8B103) at RN14 (upper right below U14). Next, you will install the sockets. Notice that 8 pin, 14 pin, and 16 pin sockets of the same width are used. Be certain not to place a shorter socket in the wrong location in place of a longer one. I like to start with the longer ones. Then, I know I cannot make that mistake. The PCB indicates the end for the notch. Align the socket notch as marked on the PCB. Bending two opposite corner pins is a good way to hold the socket to the PCB wile soldering. Solder the other two corner pins ONLY. But, before soldering, make sure all the pins are coming through the holes in the PCB. These pins bend easily and could bend back under the socket and go unnoticed. Check the socket flat on the PCB while it is still easy to re-heat one pin and squeeze the socket to the PCB if it is not perfectly flat. Once you are certain the socket is flat, solder the remaining pins. Notice that the socket for U3 has only 8 holes on the PCB for pins. You will use one of the 14 pin sockets but clip out the 3 middle pins on each side, leaving 4 pins per side (2 at each end). Then, the socket will fit the PCB. * Install (6) 16 pin IC sockets at U7, U8, U9, U11, U15 and U17. * Use your side-cut cutters and clip the 3 middle pins from each side of one of the 14 pin IC sockets. 8 pins remain, 2 on each corner. Install this modified socket at U3 (U3 is located on the left side near the middle). * Install (8) remaining 14 pin IC sockets at U1, U2, U6, U10, U12, U13, U14, and U16 * Install (2) 8 pin IC sockets at U4 and U5. Next, you will install the transistors and voltage regulators. Notice the orientation (flat side) of each (except Q1) is marked on the PCB. Be sure to face them in the correct direction. These devices will not be pushed all the way down on the PCB. Leave 1/4 inch or less between the bottom of the transistor and the PCB. Cinch the device by bending the outside leads, then solder the middle terminal only. Then, straighten the leads and the transistor and solder the remaining two leads. Transistor Q1 is actually a transistor pair. Its tab orientation is marked on the PCB. * Install (1) transistor pair LS358-71 at Q1 (upper left corner). Be certain to align the tab with the mark on the PCB. Be careful the leads go in the 6 holes intended and none go in the holes for temperature compensation resistor R7. (R7 will be installed later). * Install (1) transistor 2N2222A at Q2 (just right of Q1) * Install (3) transistors 2N3906 at Q3, Q4, and Q5 (Q3 is upper right corner, between U14 and U15. Q4 and Q5 are below U15). * Install (2) LM317L voltage regulators at U18 and U20 (U18 is top edge, toward the right. U20 is below D1 and D2). Be careful not to confuse the LM337L for one of the LM317Ls. The LM337 is the negative voltage regulator. * Install (1) LM337L voltage regulator at U19 (just left of U18). OK. This is a good stopping point for another board wash. Run the board under warm water (do not use any soap or cleaners). Gently scrub both sides of the board to remove the organic flux. This is board wash 2 of 3. If you have not done so already, this would be a good point to inspect your solder joints. Check to be certain you have not forgotten to solder one end of a component or that you have not accidentally bridged one thing to another with excess solder. Verify the polarity of diodes. Check that the transistors and regulators are installed with the flat side as marked on the PCB. Your PCB should look now look something like this (photo 07). PART 3: Installing the remaining components on the PCB In this part you will complete the installation of components on the PCB. Along the line you will encounter your last board wash and switch to a no-clean solder. For now, we are still using organic solder that requires a board wash. Due to space limitation on the PCB, many of the resistors stand on one end instead of laying flat on the PCB. They take less PCB space, but stick up much higher and are easier to inadvertently bend. I have saved these stand up resistors until now when we installing the taller PCB components. Notice that one of the terminal has a circle around it. The end of the resistor will sit in this circle with the bent lead in the other hole. You will start with the remaining 1% resistors * Install (1) 1.33K ohm resistor at R45 (upper right corner, between U18 and RT6) * Install (2) 49.9K ohm resistor at R46 and R47 (upper right corner, left of RN13) * Install (1) 45.3K ohm resistor at R50 (upper right corner, below RN14) Next, the remaining 5% resistors: * Install (5) 200 ohm resistors at R48, R49, R32*, R34*, and R44* (R32 and 34 are middle of PCB, near U19. R44 is upper left, below U18. R48 and R49 are on the right edge, right of Q3). * Install (2) 1K ohm resistors at R33* and, R35* (R33 and 35 are middle of PCB, right of U19). NOTE - In the photos of my PCB, you will notice that R32, R33, R34, R35, and R44 5% resistors are actually changed to1%. That is just my personal preference to metal film resistors in regulator circuits. * Install (2) 100K ohm resistors at R42 and R62 (R42 is lower right, left of U17. R62 is at right edge, right of U17). See important note: Important: When you trim your leads after soldering do NOT trim the lead off of R42 (the end that sits in the circle on the PCB). Instead, just bend that lead over. Later, we will use this as an attachment point for the bypass switch modification. Here is a photo (08) of both untrimmed leads (this one and another later). * Install (3) 10K ohm resistors at R53, R59, and R61 (R53 is right middle, just left of Q4. R59 is lower right, left of U16. R61 is at right edge, right of U17). * Install (2) 15K ohm resistors at R52, and R56 (R52 is left side, right of U15. R52 is left side, right of U16). * Install (2) 2.2K ohm resistors at R55, and R63 (R55 is middle left edge, below U15. R63 is middle left edge, below U16). * Install (2) 470K ohm resistors at R39, and R41 (both lower middle, between U12 and U13). * Install (1) 56K ohm resistor at R37 (R37 middle, just left of U12). * Install (1) 7.5K ohm resistor at R38 (R38 middle, just left of U12). * Install (1) 10 ohm resistor at R40 (lower middle, between U12 and U13). * Install (1) 20K ohm resistor at R51 ( upper left edge, left of Q3). * Install (1) 330 ohm resistor at R54 (middle left edge, below U15) * Install (1) 33K ohm resistor at R60 (lower left edge, left of U16) * Install (1) 1K ohm resistor at R57 (R57 at right edge, right of U16) * Install (1) 100K ohm resistor at R58 (right next to R57). For the last resistor R36, the size of the resistor varies depending on the type of LED you plan to use. If you are using the LED supplied with the Blacet kit, use 5.6K ohm. If you are using the MOTM style Lumex LED, use a 3.3K ohm resistor. Note: Resistor position R11 still remains open if you are installing my negative CV voltage protection) * Install (1) 5.6K ohm or 3.3K ohm resistor at R36 (R36 middle, just left of U12). Now all resistors except the temperature compensating resistor R7 have been installed. R7 will be the last component. Next, you will install the remaining capacitors. All remaining capacitors are electrolytic and polarity must be observed. Notice the PCB is marked with a "+" sign. The caps have "+" indicated by a longer lead and "-" indicated by a stripe on the capacitor. Install all capacitors with the "-" stripe facing away from the "+" mark on the PCB. * Install (2) 100uF electrolytic capacitors at C31 and C33 (next to power connector). Notice they face opposite directions. * Install (1) 1uF electrolytic capacitor at C25 (right of D3 and D4). * Install (12) 10uF electrolytic capacitors at C3, C7, C8, C9, C10, C14, C16, C17, C26, C35, and C37. Locations are easy to spot as they are the only caps left to install and have circles for their locations on the PCB. These are the last three components to be attached to the PCB with organic washable solder. After these, you will be ready for your final board wash and a break. * Install (2) resettable fuse-like devices at PS1 and PS2 (near the power connector) Important: When you trim your leads after soldering do NOT trim the lead off of PS1 (the end toward capacitor C31). Instead, just bend that lead over. Later, we will use this as an attachment point for the bypass switch modification. Here is a photo (08) that show both untrimmed leads. * Install the power connector at J10 The locking tab faces to the inside of the PCB as indicated by the double line on the PCB. SEE NOTE NOTE: Be sure when you are fitting your power connector that you have room to fit your screw if you placed one in this corner as I did. While all fit the connector the same, I have found that Blacet has used a variety of 156 style power connectors. Some have a larger base than others. Make sure your base does not prevent the installation of your nylon support screw. If it does, use the MOTM style part number as indicated on Moe's MOTM compatible part number page. Those fit just fine. Some of the Blacet power connectors are OK, some are not. OK. It's time for the last board wash. Run the board under warm water (do not use any soap or cleaners). Gently scrub both sides of the board to remove the organic flux. On-end resistors are more easily bent so, be extra careful on the top board scrubbing. You will NOT use washable solder for the remainder of construction. If you have not done so already, this would be a good point to inspect your solder joints. Check to be certain you have not forgotten to solder one end of a component or that you have not accidentally bridged one thing to another with excess solder. Verify the polarity of all electrolytic capacitors. Yes, you still have those two untrimmed leads. Allow your PCB to dry completely, and put away that organic solder. All soldering from this point forward will make use of no-clean solder. PART 4: Installing the trimmer pots, R7, and connecting wires to the PCB The six trimmer pots and temperature compensating resistor are the last components to be soldered to the PCB. Notice that the trimmers have varied values. Be certain to get the correct value in the correct location. Check their value with your meter if you have any doubt. Don't forget to switch to no-clean solder. * Install (1) 200 ohm trimmer (marked 201) at RT6 * Install (2) 100K ohm trimmer (marked 104) at RT1 and RT5 * Install (1) 10K ohm trimmer (marked 103) at RT3 * Install (1) 50K ohm trimmer (marked 503) at RT4 * Install (1) 20K ohm trimmer (the larger multi-turn trimmer) at RT2. Pin 1 of the trimmer goes toward the end with the dot. Now, I will refer you back to Part # 1 of these instructions. If you did choose to make my negative control voltage protection modification, you have left out part R11 (45.3 K ohm resistor. Here is where we will install the modification, that does include that resistor. Insert part only one end of R11 (45.3K ohm) so that it is in a standing position. Insert R11 in the hole that is closest to Q1. At the opposite hole (toward the edge of the PCB), insert your extra 1K ohm 1% resistor also standing on end. Now, tie together by twisting the two tops of these two resistors. They now have a tee pee style appearance on the PCB. Do not solder the tops together yet. Do solder to PCB. Take your two remaining 1N4148 signal diodes and connect them end to end about 1/2 inch apart (removing a significant portion of their leads), Connect so that one cathode connects to one anode, or so the cathode stripes are both facing the same direction. photo (13) I stuck about 1 1/2 inches of heat shrink over this so that I end up with a component inside (composed of two diodes in series) and I have a nice long lead sticking out of each end. The heat shrink is not required, but makes the modification bullet proof in my opinion. If you do add the heat shrink, be sure to mark which end is the cathode. photo (14) Now, you are ready to install your diode combo. The anode end connects to the twisted junction point of R11 and the 1K resistor that stands on end tee pee style at the R11 location. The cathode lead connects through the via hole just below R14 and just above the "S" in RESEARCH. This location is electrically ground. Now you can solder the top connection of R11, the 1K resistor and the anode end of your series diodes. Your finished modification should look like this photo (15). Now, you have come to the last part on the PCB - the temperature compensated resistor R7. This resistor is installed so that it sits on top of Q1. It must make good thermal contact with Q1. You need to use some thermal joint compound. Put a dab on top of Q1. Be careful not to use too much. This stuff is messy and you want it contained to only the top of Q1. Form your leads and insert 1K resistor R7 so that the resistor body is flat on top of Q1 resting on the thermal compound. Bend the resistor leads under the PCB to hold into place. Solder one side only. Then, gently pull any slack out of the other lead with needle nose pliers to pull the resistor firmly on top of Q1. Re-bend the lead to hold into position and solder. Your Q1 / R7 combo should now look like this photo (10). Congratulations. You are complete with all soldering of components to the PCB. Up until this point, you have basically built the PCB as if it were going behind the Blacet panel (except you did not attach the six front panel pots or LED to the PCB). From this point forward, you will be departing considerably from the Blacet version of the Time Machine to attach to the MOTM style front panel. I will assume at this point that you already have your MOTM style front panel drilled and ready to go. I will also assume you have your bracket drilled for the PCB. Your completed PCB should resemble this photo (09). Your next task, is to prepare the front panel controls for attachment to the PCB. You will also attach all wires to the PCB as needed. Gather up your six 50 K linear pots, nine 1/4 jacks, one SPDT switch, and LED. I decided to prepare my front panel controls by attaching all the wires of the correct length to facilitate the attachment to the PCBs. I also decided to adopt a color standard for the pot and switch numbers. I highly recommend this. I will often refer to the colors I used. Be sure to write down the color selections you decide to use. For my standard for pots and switches, I elected to use these colors (I used some of he wire John supplied with the kit): Pin 1 = green/white/black striped, Pin 2 = blue, Pin 3 = yellow/white striped. Please be aware that all of the wire lengths I specify in this document assume a PCB mounted to the left (looking from the back). Opposite side mounting will change these recommended lengths. First, attach three wires to each 50 K panel pot. Be sure you have a backing nut for all six of the pots. If you use pots intended for PCB mounting (as I did), use heat shrink to insulate the wires connected to the pots. * Fit your R1 pot with three wires 7 inches long. * Fit your R2 pot with three wires 6 inches long. * Fit your R3 pot with three wires 2 inches long. * Fit your R4 pot with three wires 4 inches long. * Fit your R5 pot with three wires 3 inches long. * Fit your R6 pot with three wires 4 inches long. Twist your pot wires together to keep everything neat. Your pots should look like this: photo (18) You will not attach wires to the switch and LED. Instead, these wires will first be connected to the PCB along with the jack wires. Then, the wires will be attached to the switch and LED after you have mounted the all components to the front panel. There is no need to prepare any jacks for the front panel. We will actually start those wires from the PCB end. Let's do that now. Before we do though, you must do some advance planning for color and wire length. I will report to you the colors and lengths I used. I highly recommend you make yourself a list and a drawing of the back of the panel showing which jack is in which location. Starting from the top, left to right from back: Bypass = J2, Depth = J6, Rate = J4, Mod Rst = J5, Ext Mod = J7, Out = J9, Regen = J3, delay = J1, and In = J8. You also must decide if you will route these wires from the top of the PCB or from the bottom. The bottom is much more difficult but produces a very neat appearance when done. If you do route them across the bottom, plan to put them in heat shrink or otherwise protect them from the sharp points of cut off leads on the bottom of the PCB. The wire lengths should not significantly change from top to bottom. You may find my recommended lengths a little long depending on how you route your wires. However, I measured for the worst case. Better too long than too short. Now, you are ready to attach PCB wires for jacks, LED, and switch. Let's do the switch leads first. Remember those two leads you did not clip off way back when we were attaching components to the PCB. You should have a lead hanging out from one end of R42 and one end of PS1. These are the connection points for your switch leads. These wires should be about 11" long. Polarity and color are not important. I used blue and yellow. Attach the wires to the component leads about 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch away from the PCB This way, the solder from this connection will not run into the PCB solder joint. It is more flexible if you do this. Install heat shrink over both of these joints right down to the PCB so there is no chance of the leads shorting to anything else on the PCB. We will wire these to the switch later. Here is a photo (16) of the switch leads before heat shrink was applied. Next, you will attach the two 5 inch leads to the PCB for the LED. These are located on the PCB between pot locations R2 and R3. You can attach wires up or down. Either works fine. Down requires the longer length I specify. Be sure to color code these and write it down. I attached red to the anode and black to the cathode connection. Attach 6 wires (I used black) to the "COM" connection by the power connector. These leads must be at least 13 inches long. You will also attach ten more wires to the jack connectors on the PCB (J1 through J9, and J7S). I used different colors for each as much as possible to make it easy to follow. Use whatever colors you want. But, be sure to write it down. You will likely tie many of these wires together and knowing which color goes to which will be very beneficial. Cut the following wire lengths and attach to the PCB: J1 - 5 inches - I used blue (separate bundle - see photo) J2 - 11 inches - I used green J3 - 8 inches - I used yellow J4 - 12 inches - I used red J5 - 13 inches - I used white J6 - 10 inches - I used blue J7 - 12 inches - I used green / black / white stripe (Blacet wire) J7S - 12 inches - I used yellow / white stripe (Blacet wire) J8 - 12 inches - I used green (separate bundle - see photo) J9 - 12 inches - I used yellow (separate bundle - see photo) I brought mine all out the bottom and used heat shrink to organize them. See photo (17). Part 4: Attaching front panel controls and wiring to the PCB Instead of trying to connect wires to the front panel after parts are attached to the panel (as common on some MOTM construction), you will wire your pots to the PCB first and then attach to the front panel when mounting the PCB. I think this is easiest for this module. And, that is why you prepared the pots with leads. Connect the pots to the PCB. Be certain that the terminal numbers on the pots match those on the PCB. Notice that terminal 1 is marked at each pot location. Following my color standard, pin 1 = green / white / black striped, pin 2 = blue, pin 3 = yellow/white striped. Yours may vary. Since this is a double sided PCB, the pot leads can be soldered so that the wires come from the top (soldered normally from bottom) or come from the bottom (soldered from the top side). Either works. I will report the way I did mine in an effort to reduce wire clutter. You may vary according to your own desires. My pots R2 and R4 were connected so that the leads exit the bottom of the PCB and solder from the top. The remaining four were soldered so the wires exit form the top and were soldered normally from the bottom. If you have not done so already, twist the pots around so that all the leads between the PCB and the each pot are neatly twisted together. Here is what mine looked like (photo 19) with pots attached. Part 5: Attaching to front panel You have many wires on your Time Machine panel now. I find it helpful to pull back and tie out of the way the ones not being used. Front panel attachments will start with the pots. Four of the pots will hold the PCB mounting bracket to the front panel. I am assuming you are following my lead to have the PCB on the left side as you look from the back (MOTM style). Adjust accordingly if you have selected the opposite side. Be absolutely certain to use the backing nuts on your pots. You cannot tighten against the pot. This will ruin the pot. * Attach eight of the nine Switchcraft jacks to the panel. I normally install mine MOTM style with the bevel to the top right. Align and tighten all eight. You will not install the bypass jack at this time. * Attach the PCB to the PCB mounting bracket using screws, standoffs and nuts. * Install the four pots in a row through the bracket and front panel. Be sure to insert them in the correct locations. From top to bottom: R2 = Regen, R5 = Mod mix, R3 = Rate, R4 = depth. Hand tighten the nuts. * Before tightening these pot nuts to secure the bracket, be certain to align the bracket to your satisfaction. Make certain it is not interfering with other holes. I recommend lining the bracket edge (where it is bent) up straight with the panel front edge and set back inside about 3/16 inch. One method is to place the bracket flat on a table with the panel "edge" against the table to line everything up straight. Once you are satisfied that the bracket is lined up to your satisfaction, tighten both pot nuts on the front of the panel. Use a nut driver to avoid scratching the panel. * Install the two remaining pots through the front panel. Be sure to insert them in the correct locations. From top to bottom: R1 = delay, R6 = mix. Tighten the nuts. Your circuit now attached to the panels should look like this: photo (20) Pull the two wires for your LED through the LED hole in the front panel. Slide some heat shrink as needed over the two wires before you attach them to the LED. Solder the wires so that the anode wire goes to the longer of the two leads on the LED. According to my color selection, my red wire connects to the longer lead and my black wire to the shorter lead. Heat to shrink and push the LED into the panel hole. photo (21) Now that you have the LED installed, insert and tighten the last remaining jack in the bypass jack location. We left this out to make it easier to install the LED. Next, you will attach the wires to the jacks. First, you will notice that while you have 9 jacks, you have only 6 "common" black wires for grounds. Some of the jacks share a common ground wire. The following jacks (J1 delay, J3 regen, J4 rate, J6 depth) have their grounds connected together and attached to the PCB with a single common wire. All ground wires attach to the bevel side of the jack. The remaining 5 common wires attach to the remaining 5 jacks (J2 bypass, J5 mod rst, J7 ext mod, J8 in and J9 out). You have 10 wires remaining to connect to the 9 jacks. * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J6 to the right lug of the DEPTH jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is blue. * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J9 to the right lug of the OUT jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is yellow (separate group). * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J4 to the right lug of the RATE jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is red. * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J3 to the right lug of the REGEN jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is yellow. * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J5 to the right lug of the MOD RST jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is white. * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J1 to the right lug of the DELAY jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is blue (separate group). * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J2 to the right lug of the BYPASS jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is green. * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J7 to the right lug of the EXT MOD jack. On mine, this wire is green / black / white striped (Blacet supplied). * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J7S to the top lug of the EXT MOD. On mine, this wire is yellow / white striped (Blacet supplied). * Attach the wire from PCB terminal J8 to the right lug of the IN jack. Make no connection to the top lug. On mine, this wire is green (separate group). Your last connection to the front panel is to the bypass switch modification. Of course, if you have not elected to include the bypass switch modification, you are done. But, I expect most of you are including this modification since the screening is included on the Stooge Panel. You will need to your switch and a 100K resistor. I mounted my switch to the panel after I connected the wires. Connect one end of the 100K ohm resistor to the back of your switch to one of the end terminals. It does not matter which end terminal. Slide some heat shrink as needed over the two wires before you attach them to the switch. Connect these two wires from your circuit board (we wired the PCB end earlier) to your switch. These should be the last two unconnected wires you have coming from your PCB. One will connect to the middle lug on your switch. One will connect to the end of the resistor. One end terminal of the switch remains open. It does not matter which of the two wires connect to the middle terminal. There is no polarity to this connection. photo (22) Insert your switch into the front panel. Position it so that the unconnected lug is toward the top. Be sure to use the backing nut on the switch. And, do not overtighten. These switches will not tolerate the kind of torque used to tighten jacks or pots to your panel. Congratulations. Your Time Machine is now completed except for the chip installation. Add your six knobs to the panel pots. Your Time Machine is now ready for testing and calibration. Please refer to the Blacet documentation for testing and calibration. Notice that the first test of the power supply is done without any chips installed in the sockets. Here are photos of mine: front (photo 24) back (photo 23) Once you have verified proper power supply voltages per the Blacet instructions, you can insert the chips in the sockets. Be certain to exercise static control to avoid damage to the chips. Be sure to install all chips with the notch toward the front panel. Follow Blacet's instructions for calibration and check out. If you do not have a frequency counter to set the VCO frequency range, you will have to estimate. Set both R1 and R2 near the center of their range. R1 sets the minimum delay time, R2 sets they maximum. I plan to offer a document for calibrating these trimmers without a frequency meter. I do have a couple of notes of interest for your calibration: 1. Be sure you calibrate RT6 voltage on the first power up before you inserted your chips. 2. I found that no input attenuation was needed. Therefore, I started with RT4 to the full clockwise position instead of the middle position. 3. Don't be surprised if you have no sound though the wet side before adjusting RT5. I found that the Time Machine function works only for a narrow range of RT5. Just as John suggested, there is a sweet spot in the middle of that functional range where distortion is at a minimum. Obviously, that is what you are aiming for. 4. RT1 and RT2 interact. Check the adjustment at each end of the delay control each time you adjust one. That concludes my instructions for assembly of the Blacet Time Machine in the MOTM format using Stooge panels and brackets. I hope my work has made the process more enjoyable for you and helped you to achieve success. I always welcome feedback and constructive criticism. If you have any ideas for improvement of this document, please drop me a note. Here are the completed photos. Larry Hendry 01/26/02 Revision 1